48 Hours in Córdoba

From its heyday as the go-to center of learning and multicultural consonance  — while the rest of Europe trudged through the “Dark Ages” — to its current status as a magnet for tourists seeking a glimpse of its Muslim/Catholic/ Jewish past, Córdoba is a city not to be missed.  Truth be told, of all that Córdoba has to offer, there is only one irritation:  You must hold down the “o” key, then strike the appropriate letter (out of a choice of eight), in order to indicate the accent mark every time you type the name of this former Islamic capital of the Iberian Peninsula.  For that reason, we will be referring to Córdoba as C. for the remainder of this post.

P1010119

Sign for Córdoba Centro with annoying accent mark.

At the beginning of November, we took a quick two-night trip to C.  We had heard wonderful references to the Mezquita and were intrigued to find out what the judería was all about.  With only 48 hours to spare, we embraced our roles as tourists and stuck to the major attractions.

{Click on photo for view of major attractions that C. has to offer.}


 

Mezquita:  No visit to the Mezquita would be complete without a prior Wikipedia search under the heading “Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.”  A brief summary follows:  Constructed over a period of 200 years (785-987 C.E.), this grand mosque (built on the previous foundation of a Visigothic house of worship) was transformed into a church after yet 300 more years of diligent work (1236-1520? C.E.).  We finished this baby off in a mere 65 minutes.


 

Alcázar:  Completed in the 14th century under the auspices of Alfonso XI, this Castle of the Christian Monarchs sits atop the remnants of previous Roman and Arab civilizations.  It was here that Christopher Columbus first met King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel in 1486.  A. & M. successfully navigated the Tower of the Lion, the Tower of the Inquisition, the Keep, the Mosaics Hall, the Moorish Patio, and the Gardens in 43 minutes. (We did not visit the Royal Baths.)


 

Judería:  There is nothing funny to say about the judería.  Even the accent mark isn’t funny.  Yes, a thriving Jewish intellectual and mercantile life existed before the rise of Reyes Católicos (aka, Ferdinand and Isabel), and yes, the study of Judaism flourished, and yes, the great 12th century philosopher-doctor-jurist Moses Maimonides called C. “home” (or more likely “لبيت”) [until he was forced into exile], but like many historical sites in C., all that is in the past.  Try to find a bagel and cream cheese in contemporary C.?  Forget it.

Still, we made our way to the small 14th century sinagoga and toured Casa de Sefarad, a museum devoted to the life and times of los judios during what is called the Islamic Golden Age and during the subsequent “Reconquista.”  (Occasional massacres, pogroms, and expulsions excluded.) Time spent in the judería:  Eleven hours, 42 minutes.


 

The remainder of our time was spent sleeping, eating, preparing to leave the apartment for outings, and experiencing the spontaneous combustion of travel.   Transpired time:  A vigorous thirty-four hours, 30 minutes.

Total time spent in C.: 48 hours.  Perfecto!

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One thought on “48 Hours in Córdoba

  1. Thank you so much for taking us along on your journey. I am learning things along the way. Anya thank you for the post card, I just loved it. Safe travels guys💕💕💕💕

    Like

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